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Author Topic: Car Trouble  (Read 36966 times)

Offline Thoms

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #14 on: December 30, 2015, 02:10:05 PM »
Oops I must the post above yours duck. My bad. I'd guess because the battery has had the fuck juiced out of it for a month and its fried to. He will need a new alternator and 85% chances a new battery as well.
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Fear and self loathing in thoms.

Offline Daughter of Dionysus

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #15 on: December 30, 2015, 02:26:18 PM »
Griffin
Did you by any chance
Google to see if there is
A problem that is common
With your year and model car?
Sometimes it happens that certain cars have issues
Specific to model and year

Like with my VW Beetle
A common problem was the rings
I found that out thru Google

I know y'all may think cuz I'm female
That I don't know wtf I'm talking about
But I would think
You have a problem with your alternator

FTR
I have worked on cars
I started racing when I was 9
And used to manage my Dad's full service station

That's my 2ยข
And a lil info regarding it's basis
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Offline Thoms

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #16 on: December 30, 2015, 02:37:31 PM »
Bad ass what did you race HeAd?I had a frienkinstien ex500 and a Honda RS250. (Not the aprilia RS) it was similar to the Yamaha tz250. I miss willow springs!
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Offline Daughter of Dionysus

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2015, 02:42:12 PM »
Bad ass what did you race HeAd?I had a frienkinstien ex500 and a Honda RS250. (Not the aprilia RS) it was similar to the Yamaha tz250. I miss willow springs!
I raced Jr. Dragster
And a couple times
I did the quarter mile in my Dad's
1984 Camero
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Offline Guts

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2015, 03:02:43 PM »
Oops I must the post above yours duck. My bad. I'd guess because the battery has had the fuck juiced out of it for a month and its fried to. He will need a new alternator and 85% chances a new battery as well.

He's saying the lights turn on when it's jumped so the battery is still working to some extent. He said the starter is not making any noise though... would an alternator cause that?

Duck: also something I didn't think about is, if it wasn't the alternator, how would the battery have died in the first place?

On a small side note, check out this sweet tattoo:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.carthrottle.com/workspace/uploads/memes/tatuaje_turbo_alternador-54fde1ba5df90.jpg

Dude thought it was a turbo he was getting inked but it's actually an alternator lol... sure you don't got a turbo where the alternator is supposed to be Griffin? ;)
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Offline Opus

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #19 on: December 30, 2015, 03:12:04 PM »
I raced Jr. Dragster

That's badass!

Do you remember the numbers you were putting down? 1/8th mile I'm guessing?

Do you remember your reaction times or maybe the 60' times?

I'd be interested to know more about the cars..

@Guts: if the lights come on when the cables are hooked, all that means is the car is pulling enough power from the "donor" battery to power the lights on the "jumpee." It doesn't mean there's necessarily enough juice to crank the starter tho, but that could be caused by a few things.

I have a Honda that will just "click" when it doesn't have the amps to turn the starter -- not sure if I said that already.

An alternator is simply a generator that pushes AC current instead of DC current. It's sole job is to supply power to the car; for the lights & accessories, ignition and for re-charging the battery while the car is running, that's all it does. If you had a really ass-kicking battery with endless power, you wouldn't need an alternator. Or likewise: if you had an alternator that spun while the motor wasn't running, you wouldn't need a battery.
« Last Edit: December 30, 2015, 03:17:58 PM by Opus »
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Offline Dustybowls

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #20 on: December 30, 2015, 04:05:11 PM »
Duck,  when the battery is really low it will take a lot of charge to even turn the motor over. We know the battery is bad because when he puts cables on it the lights work,when the cables are disconnected the lights no longer work. Lights draw very little power compared to the starter so that's why they work and the car still won't turn over.   
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Offline Daughter of Dionysus

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #21 on: December 30, 2015, 04:21:21 PM »
That's badass!

Do you remember the numbers you were putting down? 1/8th mile I'm guessing?

Do you remember your reaction times or maybe the 60' times?

I'd be interested to know more about the cars..

@Guts: if the lights come on when the cables are hooked, all that means is the car is pulling enough power from the "donor" battery to power the lights on the "jumpee." It doesn't mean there's necessarily enough juice to crank the starter tho, but that could be caused by a few things.

I have a Honda that will just "click" when it doesn't have the amps to turn the starter -- not sure if I said that already.

An alternator is simply a generator that pushes AC current instead of DC current. It's sole job is to supply power to the car; for the lights & accessories, ignition and for re-charging the battery while the car is running, that's all it does. If you had a really ass-kicking battery with endless power, you wouldn't need an alternator. Or likewise: if you had an alternator that spun while the motor wasn't running, you wouldn't need a battery.

In the camero
The best I ever did was
13 secs

My Dad
Averaged 11.5 secs
He was pretty good

With my dragster
I averaged about 12 secs in the quarter mile
I stopped racing Jr. Drag when I was 13
And only raced my Dad's car
For fun a couple times

I don't wanna derail this thread
Any further
Sorry Griffin

Thanx guys
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Offline Griffin (OP)

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #22 on: December 30, 2015, 05:53:28 PM »
I cleaned the intervals and put some lube stuff i got with the battery that is supposed to clean it and protect it on their before I reinstalled the battery. The battery has zero juice so I have to try jump starting it again but don't really have anyone who can help me with that because my roommate is lazy and i have zero friends in this state. I hooked up my jumper cables to it and touched the metal tips on the other end to see if it had any power at all and it didn't spark or anything and I still cant lock my doors or anything like that.

I checked the ground wire and it was hooked up good the wires dont like corroded or like they have a bad connection or anything. I looked around and didn't see anything that looked unplugged or anything like that. I am going to try and jump start it one more time, and then I am going to have the battery tested and see if they will replace it because it has no juice left in it at all.

If I can get it started with a jump start or new battery I am going to take it to a shop by my house that is doing free battery, alternator, and starter checks and see if they can diagnose the problem. If I have to tow it then I probably will and see how much it will cost to get fixed the shop is only 3 miles from my house so hopefully I can tow it for cheap. If i don't get it fixed and taken into the breathalyzer place before the 10th then I will have to pay them another $100.

I was supposed to get the breathalyzer out on the 21st but since I can't take it in to get the data off it downloaded, and they can't do it remotely since it has no power I can't have my hearing at the dmv for them to say whether or not I can have it taken out and get my license back. They can deny me and I will have to keep it for 5 more months because I got the ticket, and blew hot once 2 weeks after getting it put in from having just washed my hands at work. According to them it picked up the alcohol in the soap and cost me $90 to not get locked out.

The dmv will probably let me get it out since I passed the breath test 5 mins. before and 2 mins. after blowing hot the time I failed but I have to take it to their shop before the dmv will give me a hearing. If I can't get it fixed I will have to either tow it to the breathalyzer shop, then tow it home, then have my hearing and if they say yes I will have to tow it their and back again to have it taken out. They probably wont let me get the info downloaded until I pay them the $190 I owe them right now, I just don't want to have to pay for it another month if I can get it out.

I will keep you guys updated on what happens and what the problem was. THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH!!! for everything all the advice, ideas, suggestions, and support I really appreciate you guys helping me with this. You all know I don't have many people to talk to and I don't know anything about cars so this helped me a ton!

Hopefully it is something cheap and simple because I spent 5 hours on the bus yesterday and 4 hours today just going to my clinic and back. I am hoping that when I replaced the battery I unplugged something so it couldn't recharge or something like that and that it is an easy and cheap fix. My last battery could of just been bad because it was old, and then when I put the new one in I messed something up on accident. Once I can get someone to help me by giving me a jump I will know a lot more and be able to diagnose it a little better.

Hopefully it starts right up when I jump it so I can take it to get looked at and fixed so I can get the stupid expensive breathalyzer out and not have to take the bus anymore. I am hoping that since it died on christmas that they can send the data they have before that to the dmv so I can get my hearing but I don't know if it is something that downloads automatically or if they have to remotely download it when it has power to get that info.

If it won't start then I may try to have them download the info remotely when I have power to it so I don't have to tow it to their shop twice or pay for 2 $150 service calls. What is dumb is that I could just bring the breathalyzer to their shop so they can download the history but I am not allowed to take it out unless I am at their shop.

I think the breathalyzer is causing some of the problem, because it uses power 24/7 so they know it is always on and where I am at. I only drive short 10 minute or less trips so it might not have enough time to recharge and has power being depleted 24/7 or the breathalyzer could be the reason it wont start when jumped because it hasn't had power so it thinks its been tampered with which you can't do and when I jumped it last time it was the first time it has ever said device removed.

I am just praying that stuff starts going right. I am getting my phase 3 next week so I will only have to goto the clinic 3 days a week and School starts the 9th if my appeal gets approved and if it does I will only have to make it to the end of feb. for my loan money to come in then I can pay all my probation fines, get my car fixed, and pay rent for the next 6 months so I won't have anymore financial stress, plus being in school makes me happy by itself, because I am doing something and working on my future so I am not stuck on min. wage forever.

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Offline Opus

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #23 on: December 30, 2015, 06:59:52 PM »
Quote
I think the breathalyzer is causing some of the problem, because it uses power 24/7 so they know it is always on and where I am at. I only drive short 10 minute or less trips so it might not have enough time to recharge and has power being depleted 24/7 or the breathalyzer could be the reason it wont start when jumped because it hasn't had power so it thinks its been tampered with which you can't do and when I jumped it last time it was the first time it has ever said device removed.

You could be right on about this. If it doesn't have it's own power supply then it has to get power somewhere. Somehow I doubt it's nuclear or solar powered.. It's also very true that if you never or rarely drive more than 10 miles, you're not really ever giving the battery a good charge and that kind of treatment could deplete it fast.

Once you get the car running, make sure you go drive it for awhile -- I'd take it out on the highway and run it with all accessories off for awhile, like a couple dozen miles+ at least.

Again if you can find a multimeter, once you sort the battery, you can tell if you have a parasitic drain happening (like if the breathalyzer is draining it) by checking the voltage every few hours. Just set the dial on the meter to like "20V DC" or something close to 20, so that you get a readout like: "12.45 V DC" - with two places followin the decimal, and check it like every few hours between drives and watch for a drop. Outdoor temp should be consistent when doing this, but the voltage shouldn't really drop much over a day outside of maybe big temperature swings.

IDK if that helps. FWIW I got my last little POS multimeter for like $15 (as clueless as they always were, I'll miss radioshack).
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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2015, 07:40:24 PM »
I would put my money on a battery
if you can get it to start and then disconnect the battery and it stays running.
its not your alternator its the battery I know that but it sounds to me like it's your battery

And HeAd is better mechanic then me
that girl rocks when it comes to cars and she can drive the shit out of 5 speed
I love girls who can shift manual transmissions they're hot
« Last Edit: December 30, 2015, 07:44:59 PM by hero 1 »
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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #25 on: December 31, 2015, 10:51:58 AM »
Check your battery warranty before spending money on a new one. I got mine replaced free like a year later because it was considered "defective" failing that soon


Also I used to have a problem the the wire to my starter would kinda come loose, I believe it was like a plug. It would not make noise but everything else would work so not your issues but I'd just click it on all the way and be good to go
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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #26 on: December 31, 2015, 11:18:11 AM »


I think the breathalyzer is causing some of the problem, because it uses power 24/7 so they know it is always on and where I am at. I only drive short 10 minute or less trips so it might not have enough time to recharge and has power being depleted 24/7 or the breathalyzer could be the reason it wont start when jumped because it hasn't had power so it thinks its been tampered with which you can't do and when I jumped it last time it was the first time it has ever said device removed.


Yeah i know a guy that had to use a breathalyzer and he was having battery problems due to it not being hooked up quite as its meant to be.  DEFINITELY get that part checked out.

Other than that get a Fluke on it as mentioned and test it or have someone do it that knows how.  DON'T start throwing parts at it until you've got it diagnosed.

Good luck, having a car that won't start is very frustrating, no?
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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #27 on: December 31, 2015, 12:00:27 PM »
Griffi, not trying to be an asshole, but you will get better responses to a pretty straight forward auto issue if you are a little more concise and clear and don't write a novel for each reply. 

Also, I get that the alternator is PROBABLY bad, but in auto repair you work easiest to hardest. A bad alternator will not directly prevent starting. It may wear down a battery, yes, but then the reason it's not starting is the weak battery. 

It's silly to jump to alternator before thoroughly checking connections and battery.

In this instance I would probably test the alternator before the starter as O'Reillys can test the alternator on the car while the starter must be removed to be tested which usually costs about 50 bux

Also the breathyzer would be high on my list as things to check as a draw on your battery that could be causing this problem.  It is a very good idea to get a multimeter (5.99$ from Harnor freight).  Then just Google how to test certain components.  The test process is different for different electrical components. They are very simple to use if you follow instructions fron YouTube or Google
« Last Edit: December 31, 2015, 12:05:03 PM by duck »
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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #28 on: December 31, 2015, 05:03:20 PM »
I would put my money on a battery
if you can get it to start and then disconnect the battery and it stays running.
its not your alternator its the battery I know that but it sounds to me like it's your battery

And HeAd is better mechanic then me
that girl rocks when it comes to cars and she can drive the shit out of 5 speed
I love girls who can shift manual transmissions they're hot


I prefer to drive a manual ...taught both my boys to drive them...people never ask to borrow my jeep lol...I'm surprised by the amount of people who can't drive a manual ...
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Offline Griffin (OP)

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Re: Car Trouble
« Reply #29 from previous page: December 31, 2015, 08:57:33 PM »
Yeah you are probably right duck i should put my woe's about the world having me over a barrel in another thread so i dont derail this one so i can get something figured out.


Little update after reinstalling the battery and cleaning intervals and checking all wires and fluids in the car i tried to jump start it again with the exact same results. It didnt try to turn over, it didnt make clicking or any noise at all, i think i may have heard the fuel pump kick on but that is all. Within a minute of taking the jumper cables off it was completely dead and no lights or electronics etc would turn on.

I am going to see if the battery is fucked right now if it is a dead cell or bad battery I read somewhere that can cause this. They said they will charge it and if holds a charge then they wont replace it. So depending on what happens there i might no a tiny bit more. Could this be a fuse that is blown and not letting the car know to do start or something. Or an electrical issue causing the same thing. Could it be both the starter and alternator? if the starter wasn't working and the alternator was wouldn't the battery not of died if it is good?
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