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Author Topic: [drugs.com] Methamphetamine 101 -- Testing Your Product  (Read 2855 times)

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[drugs.com] Methamphetamine 101 -- Testing Your Product
« on: August 25, 2021, 10:30:26 PM »
link: https://drugs-forum.com/threads/methamphetamine-101-testing-your-product.167860/

source: beentheredonethatagain on Sep 17, 2011 with a few edits by me.

Methamphetamine 101: Testing your product

as of late there have been numerous questions asking about how to tell if the shit is good , or even real, and how to test it.

first things first, if you have to ask yourself: is this shit any good ? after doing some , then it ain't.

after a couple of hits out of the glass pipe , you should feel very good and energized, and not having the desire to refill the pipe, good shit will get you busy doing something other than smoking up your sack.

a little good meth goes a long way

if you do some , and you feel more tired than before , then it ain't real.

Bleach Test: pour liquid bleach into a glass , a couple of ounces is all you need, drop a small amount of your product into the glass with the bleach in it.

and watch what happens, if its real , the speed will start dancing around, it will dart around for a few seconds, and after a few minutes or less , small oily spots will form on top of the bleach !!!

if it sinks to the bottom without dart around first, guess what? it ain't real.

Smoke test: when blowing out a hit, the smoke should come straight out of your mouth and clouds that are long streams, like a rainbow .

If the smoke exhaled , come out and stays close to you and goes sideways and in circles to the left and right , it is not a good sign.

Nasal test: Real meth will burn your nose when snorted, so much that tears could form in your eyes, some call it the donkey kick, it feels that bad.
which is good!!

no burn or very little burn is a bad sign.

Magnification test: Look at your product under some magnification, it should all look the same as far as color and texture , the shards should be rigid, uneven , rough edges.
the color should be pretty clear or transparent , mostly but not 100%

Cloudy rocks are another bad sign.

If the edges are smooth and straight kinda uniformed shape , bad sign!!

Meth should not look wet, if it looks wet or kinda oily and easy to break apart, Bad Sign.
Chip's edit: I have had oily Meth that was fabulous

Pipe test: if your pookie ( glass pipe ) turns dark inside the bubble after smoking some , Bad

if it just burns away quickly , no good!!!

real meth will re crystallize , quickly and clear or at least white, and it should start forming a pattern of lines, like spokes on a bicycle.
Chip's edit: look at the pattern as it recrystallizes (can take up to 20 seconds) and if the pattern develops rapidly from one side to another then that is usually a sign of purity. 

if brown spots form instead of lines, guess what ? , yep bad.

Real meth will smoke easy, and you cant really fuck it up , on the other hand fake shit will run away from the flame and will be hard to smoke , bad shit will run up the side and wont stay on the bottom of the bubble.

real stuff will stay in one spot .

Chip's edit: if you forgot about your pipe because you got too busy after a few puffs then that's a great sign !

Acetone test: Remember cold dry acetone is your friend, learn how to clean your product with it, acetone will dissolve most cuts, meth is not soluble in acetone.

Acetone will evaporate clean.

I hope this helps, a lot of bullshit is being sold as meth, do not fall into this trap, buying it is worse than throwing your money away, it far worse because the effects of smoking fake dope are horrible, it causes depression, fatigue, a feeling of worthlessness, and then you are in a bad funk, worse than you felt prior , be carefull and don't be afraid to tell your connection NO!

that's the only way to keep dealers straight, because time and time again , they will sell you good shit at first, then as you become a loyal customer they will start giving you adulterated shit, and if you don't speak up and complain, they know you don't know good from bad and the shit will always be fucked up from then on.

if you speak up and stop buying their crap, they will come out with the real stuff , I have beenthere

source: c6h12o6glu on Jan 12, 2012

In my experience the easiest, most solidly reliable instant identification test for amphetamine / methylamphetamine is the 'Marquis Test' (as recommended and described for pharmacists by the British Pharmacopoeia).

Marquis ReagentWiki produces a simple, strong colour reaction that changes from an amazing instantaneous intense orange to dull olive green over a short period. The test will not (directly) tell you how pure the test substance is, but at least you know immediately that [methyl]amphetamine is present in whatever degree.

Marquis Reagent is available online from marketers of substance identification test kits intended for field use. However, it's at its best when freshly prepared and the commercial formulations must include stabilisers for shelf life, so they can be second-rate performers.

Most labs have on hand the two components required to prepare Marquis Reagent; example: to a plastic tube add approx. 2 ml of conc. H2S04 + 0.1 ml 36% formalin solution. CAUTION: heat generated on mixing and extremely corrosive, use safe lab practices and personal protective equipment always. The reagent remains potent for several days but deteriorates rapidly after.

If anyone can relate information regarding cross-reactivity, etc. it would be appreciated. Examples of closely related amines with completely negative Marquis reaction include diethylcathinone (ie: diethylpropion) and pseudoephedrine.

source: onepot on Jun 14, 2017

The real gold-standard test that can distinguish a mixture from a pure product is measuring its melting point. Melt enough to stick a thermometer in, in a double-boiler type of system, using a liquid that can get to 180˚C without boiling. Mineral oil works, wax works, cooking oil works. Real stuff melts at 175˚C. Melt everything, until it's around 180, then let it cool while watching the thermometer. When it starts to crystallize, it'll stay around 175 if it's pure, and won't go much below that until it's all solid. If it's cut, there will be a huge range in when it starts to form crystals and when it finishes. Like 5-10 degrees usually.

Even if two substances have the exact same melting point, you can use this trick to distinguish between them, by getting a sample of what you want to test to see if it is, and make sure you know it's pure. Mix the two, and if the solidification curve is like a pure substance, then it's a match. If it looks like that of a mixture, then it's not a match.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2021, 01:18:14 AM by Chip »
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